Searching around for a project to follow on from research for my Essex book, I soon thought about the National Trail closest to London, the North Downs Way. Despite its easy proximity, it would give me a chance to discover a part of the world that I didn’t know all that well.
Much of the route is based on the famous Pilgrim’s Way from London (or Winchester) to Canterbury, immortalised by Chaucer. It’s principally a traverse of the chalk escarpment of the North Downs, much as the South Downs Way does for its equivalent. However there is a somewhat anomalous first day on greensand west (and a little east) of the River Wey.
There are many long tranquil stretches across its 150-plus miles, including a crossing of the splendid Surrey Hills and many glorious miles through Kent, the Garden of England; the clifftop stretch around Folkestone will have you looking across to France.
Pilgrim’s Way north of Lenham
Click the button to find out how I walked the North Downs Way in 2013-14. All stages used public transport from my then east London home, showing just how accessible this trail is from England’s capital.
One cavil: busy roads like the M25 and A2 intrude too often; not the planners’ fault, they either weren’t there, or were much quieter, when the route was first developed.
Transport and logistics
Boxhill & Westhumble station
Along the Way, there is a good variety of accommodation (including campsites) for those who want to stay on route. I only had one overnight, in Canterbury, though it wasn’t strictly necessary – just a chance to have a night away with my loved one as we walked the inland loop together.
Every stage apart from Chilworth (once), Borstal and Folkestone ended at a rail station. Rail times are easy to check from National Rail. For bus times I use Traveline but rather than rely on the sometimes clunky ‘plan a journey’ I use the ‘find a timetable’ link for the village.
Chilworth: the return to Chilworth worked out better to me by the hourly bus 32 from Guildford rather than the more sporadic train.
Borstal: half-hourly bus 155 to Rochester (2026 update – now hourly), or an extra two miles’ walk.
Folkestone: frequent bus 16/73/91/91A from Alkham Valley Corner, or an extra two miles’ walk.
More advice
I’ve never been a great fan of the official National Trails website, which has information on all the National Trails in England and Wales, but it is prudent to check its map for diversions etc (though sometimes they keep old diversions after they’re cleared and are late to enter new ones). Its NDW site is available here.
As an alternative, try out the northdownsway.org website, designed for both walkers and cyclists with route descriptions and accommodation options.